Before Federation Square

Location: Corner Flinders and Swanston Streets

The site currently known as 'Federation Square' has a short history, as it was built only in the late 1990s. But the space itself, right at the heart of the city alongside both the Yarra  River and Flinders Street Station, has undergone many different incarnations stretching deep into the history of Melbourne.

The corner location was the site of the first Melbourne City Morgue, established in 1871. Prior to it's construction, dead bodies in the growing city had been simply laid out in public rooms, often times in Government buildings, while they awaited burial. Growing concern over public hygiene, and Melbourne's booming population, lead to the construction of the morgue.

The Melbourne Morgue, centre left, circa 1871.

But having such a macabre building so prominently situated proved unpopular and the morgue was only in operation for 12 years before it was relocated (although the morgue building would remain, unused, until 1890 before being demolished). From 1883 the corner location was incorporated  into Melbourne's burgeoning public transport network.

Princes Bridge Railway Station was built on the corner in 1859 (and can be seen next to the morgue above), but in the 1880s it would expand considerably. After the closure of the morgue, Princes Bridge would serve as the terminus for all East bound trains, as well as housing administration offices for the railway corporation. By 1910, it was linked to the previously separate Flinders Street Station by an underground tunnel.

A train at Princes Bridge Station, 1885 (looking towards Flinders St Station)

The same station in 1918, now considerably expanded. Also note the dome
of Flinders Street Station now visible in the  background, constructed
after the first photo above was taken.

The station  would continue to serve these functions for several decades.

In the 1960's, with the growing demand for prime real estate in the CBD accelerating, the State Government would undertake a dramatic revamp of the corner location. 

Princes Bridge Station in 1964, three years before being demolished.

Wanting to modernise the look of Flinders Street the State Government demolished Princes Bridge Station and moved it underground. The revamped station would share some platforms with Flinders Street Station, while still operating as a stand alone station for some services, and be topped with a shopping arcade and public square. The land where the station had previously stood was sold for corporate development. In 1967, twin office towers were constructed on the site. Known as the Princes Gate Towers, from their opening they were tenanted by Victoria's Gas and Fuel Corporation.

The new development, shortly after completion.

And almost from the moment the redevelopment was finished, it drew criticism. The office buildings themselves were derided as ugly and accused of blocking views of the river and overshadowing St Paul's Cathedral, while the concrete square adjacent was thought to be windswept and uninviting. Neither would garner much affection from the local population.

More popular was the arcade below the public square, which provided a last minute shopping option for commuters. The arcade was also home to Central Station Records, whose shopfront was on Flinders Street, and which became a hub for Melbourne's music community (and which is fondly missed, based on the research I've done).

Central Station Records shopfront.

A crowd outside the record store queues in the rain to see an
in store appearance by heavy metal band 'Wasp.'

But overall, the office and shopping complex on Flinders Street remained unpopular.

By 1980, the gradual process of Princes Bridge Station being swallowed by the larger Flinders Street Station across the road was complete. Three platforms of the old station would be fully incorporated into Flinders Street (platforms 14, 15 and 16) and the rest would be abandoned. The 'City Circle' train which had run from Princes Bridge, servicing only the city loop stations continually, would be made defunct, and replaced by a tram service. The closure of the train station meant that the next redevelopment of the site could be undertaken in an uninhibited fashion.

But some years would pass before any plans for updating the site were put forth.

In 1996, outspoken Liberal Premier Jeff Kennett would announce a major redevelopment proposal, essentially demolishing everything on site and starting again from scratch. Calling the Gas and Fuel towers a 'dreadful eyesore' and a 'blot on the city,' Kennett promoted a mixed use option for the land; featuring a cultural centre, cutting edge office suites, shops and a public space that could be used for a variety of events. He also wanted to cover the train tracks, from the corner of Swanston Street back to Russell Street, to allow easier access between the city and the Yarra and to free up more space on the site. The ambitious proposal was budgeted at a hefty $450 million and would require cooperation between local, state and federal branches of government to realise.

The new site would be called 'Federation Square,' in honour of a hundred years of Australian federation, and it was initially hoped it would be completed in time for the centennial on January 1, 2001. But a change of Government during construction lead to changes in the plan for the site, and the resulting delays meant construction was not finished until October 2002.

The heart of the new square would be the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI), a combined cinema and display space, and the Ian Potter Gallery, an offshoot of the National Gallery of Victoria on St Kilda Road. Some of ACMI's underground gallery space would utilise parts of the old Princes Bridge Station. They would be joined by the offices of SBS and numerous bars and restaurants. Labor Premier Steve Bracks oversaw the opening, his speech on that day indicating the high hopes the Government had for the finished square:

'This space will change the face of Melbourne forever, making us truly a riverside city.'

Response to the Square's design was mostly positive, although some rejected the modern stylings of the architecture. The Sunday Age captured some first impressions from people who came to the opening:

Despite these misgivings, the rumblings of which continue to this day, Premier Bracks was right, the new Federation Square certainly had changed the city indelibly. 

Federation Square site in the 1970s.

Same site, 2004

Crowd in Federation Square gathers to watch Prime Minister Kevin Rudd's
apology speech to Australia's stolen generations.

Whether or not it remains the final reinvention the corner undergoes, remains to be seen.

The Lost Cemetery

Sprawling both sides of the Yarra, and the Eastern Freeway, Yarra Bend Park is one of Melbourne's biggest open green spaces. The seemingly endless parkland encompasses grassy plains, gravel hills, a sheltered river valley, native bushland, two public boathouses, a public golf course, a giant flying fox colony colony, a fish ladder, sports ovals and kilometres of walking and cycling tracks.

It was also once home to Melbourne's first insane asylum and is still home to an unknown number of lost graves...

Yarra Bend Park today.

As Melbourne began to expand from it's modest beginnings in the 1830's and 40's, the local authorities faced enormous challenges in delivering services to its population. One area that soon needed to be addressed was mental health. People suffering form mental illness were initially incarcerated in the city jail, but when this proved inadequate the Government began to take steps towards a more permanent solution.

In 1843, Governor Gipps sanctioned a mental hospital for the city and surveyor general Robert Hoddle selected an area north of the city, up the Yarra near Dight's Falls.

Approximate location of the Asylum.

A substantial 620 acres was set aside for the asylum and grounds, but the original buildings were modest. A single wing was built out of bluestone, with 7 cells and 2 wards for men, and 3 cells and 1 ward for women. Costing around 3000 pounds, Yarra Bend Asylum was opened late in 1848. Initially, there was some confusion as to how new patients were to be referred:

From the 'Melbourne Argus', 10 October 1848.

But the asylum was shortly in full operation and the number of inmates increased quickly. After 12 months, and with 43 people interred, the Government was forced to commission the expansion of the site into a second wing. Additional supplementary buildings and staff were also added.

A landscape by George Washington Wilson, probably from the 1850's,
showing Yarra Bend Asylum with Melbourne city in the background.

The Asylum's imposing entry gate and guardhouse.

In 1852, reports of abnormal care and patient abuse surfaced at the asylum. A Parliamentary enquiry was held and shocking stories of conditions inside the hospital were aired. Among the charges; physical and sexual abuse of patients, dirty and unhygienic facilities, misappropriation of funds, corruption and patients frequently reported as intoxicated. Head of the asylum, retired military Captain George Watson, was described in the enquiry's report as 'grossly negligent and extremely culpable.' After the report's tabling, Captain Watson was replaced by the asylum's first chief administrator with medical experience, Superintendent Dr Robert Bowie.

Meanwhile, demand for the asylum's services continued to grow rapidly. As Melbourne's population exploded on the back of the gold rush, the number of inmates increased dramatically; there were 251 by 1855 and 450 by 1858. In order to accommodate these numbers, additional wards were added (now constructed more cheaply out of wood) and the grounds were redeveloped to allow extensive gardening and farming. The inmates were put to work growing vegetables and crops as part of their treatment; supplying a good proportion of their own food and allowing any surplus to be sold to local produce markets to generate much needed revenue.

By the 1860's, Yarra Bend Asylum had become an elaborate, diverse, crowded compound.

A depiction of the Asylum and grounds from 1862.

Among the challenges for the asylum's administrators as numbers swelled, was what to do with inmates who passed away.  From early in the asylum's history, many of these unfortunates were buried  in a dedicated cemetery on asylum grounds, a short distance from the main buildings on the riverbank. Missing, or poorly kept, records mean that the exact number of burials in this cemetery are unknown, but some estimates put the figure as high as 1 200.

A map of asylum grounds from the late 1800's,
showing the location of the cemetery (centre).

By 1870, Yarra Bend had ballooned to more than a 1000 inmates.

Again facing chronic overcrowding and reports of inhumane conditions, the State Government began to examine moves to close and replace the asylum. A new mental hospital at Kew had been proposed as far back as 1856, but plans for its construction had stalled in Parliament. They were now revisited and the Kew Asylum opened in 1871, initially operating as a ward of Yarra Bend. Around this time, new institutions were also opened at Royal Park and, in rural areas, Ararat and Beechworth. All were significantly smaller than Yarra Bend however, and so served to ease the strain on the main asylum more than replacing it outright.

Another public commission in the years 1884 - 1886 (The Zox Commission) formally recommended the closure of Yarra Bend and subsequent sale of the - now very valuable - land it sat on. Successive State Government's used this report as justification to reduce or withhold funding from the facility, with the result that its already antiquated buildings fell further into disrepair. But the authorities still balked at closing the hospital altogether.

Shortly after the turn of the twentieth century, with public scrutiny of Yarra Bend mounting, the Victorian Government finally set about funding a proper replacement. Mont Park Psychiatric Hospital was built on 185 acres near present day Bundoora and accepted its first patients in 1910.

Patients quarters, Mont Park hospital.

Despite this, Yarra Bend would continue to operate for another 15 years. Lack of Government funds to facilitate the closure were to blame. It was not until 1924 that Yarra Bend stopped accepting new patients and the asylum was finally closed the following year, the remaining patients transferred to Mont Park. Inspector General for the Insane, Dr Ernest Jones, provides a grim epitaph for the place he helped to close down:

Some efforts were also made to relocate the cemetery. Where next of kin were identifiable, and had the means, they were offered the option of having the body moved to a cemetery of their choosing at their own expense. Where this was not an option, bodies were exhumed and buried in common graves at Melbourne General Cemetery. It is not known precisely how many bodies were moved and, as accurate records had not been kept, how many therefore remained. Even the precise location of the cemetery has been lost to history (the images above and below provide an approximation only, based on historical data). But it is assumed that an unknown number of corpses remain on the site, below the present day location of a practice fairway of the Studley Park golf course.

Of Yarra Bend Asylum, once the state's largest, almost no physical traces remain at all. An original gate post stands to the side of the park road near the Eastern Freeway, a solitary reminder of the many thousands who lived and died on the site.

Cyclorama

In the digital age in which we live, it's sometimes easy to forget that on demand electronic media is a new idea. iPhones are only 5 years old and iPods just over ten. And cable TV and home internet barely twenty. Even the old analog mediums that digital technology has replaced aren't that much older again; their entire history can be encompassed in a single human lifetime.

Generations who lived before these everyday innovations were commonplace sought other forms of entertainment, most of which are now marginalised or forgotten outright. One of these is the Cyclorama.

First appearing in Scotland in the 18th century, a Cyclorama is a large scale painting exhibited in a purpose built, circular building. The paintings themselves normally depict a historical event, or sometimes a natural landscape. The viewer stands on a viewing platform in the centre of the display area and so is entirely surrounded by the image. Often the painting is augmented to make the experience more immersive; information panels or audio narration may accompany the picture, music may be played or sometimes props may be added to try and make the image more three dimensional.

Before the movies took a stranglehold on the popular imagination, Cycloramas were popular and were found all across Europe and North America.

A Cyclorama in Indianapolis, Indiana, 1890. 

From an image displayed in Indianapolis, this flyer serves as
a guide to a Cyclorama of the civil war battle for Atlanta.

There were also two purpose built Cycloramas in Melbourne; one on Victoria Parade in Fitzroy (built in 1889) and one in the city on Little Collins Street (built 1891). The Fitzroy Cyclorama showed imported scenes including 'The Battle of Waterloo' and 'The Battle of Gettysburg,' while the Little Collins version showed the imported 'Siege of Paris' along with the locally produced 'Eureka Stockade.'

The Fitzroy Cyclorama

A section of the 'Battle of Waterloo' displayed in Fitzroy.

In addition to these, a smaller Cyclorama was presented at the Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton. Here the attraction was a remarkable 100 foot long, 360 degree depiction of the city itself; Early Melbourne 1842. Commissioned by the Colonial Government and created by German born artist John Hennings in 1892, the Cyclorama image was based on a sketch of the fledgling city drawn by Samuel Jackson in 1842 and thought to be one of the earliest depictions of Melbourne surviving.

Two images of Early Melbourne 1842; showing the image
in full (top) and a close up from one section of the picture.

But the Cyclorama's day in Australia was short lived. Cinema arrived in 1896 and immediately caused a sensation, quickly superseding the static Cyclorama's as a piece of entertainment. In fact, the Little Collins Cyclorama closed that same year. The Fitzroy version continued until 1906, when the enormous paintings were removed for the last time and almost certainly (and tragically) destroyed. The circular building on Victoria Parade was thereafter used for a circus, as an athletic club, for boxing matches and even as a cinema, before being demolished in 1928. Part of St Vincent's hospital now stands on the site.

The Victoria Parade site; rebadged as an 'Athletic Pavilion'
(although the Cyclorama sign is still visible).

The display at the Royal Exhibition Building was a popular attraction, however, and remained in place until about 1920. The Cyclorama was part of the Eastern Annex of the Exhibition Building complex, which also featured a museum, a fernery and an aquarium. You can see the Cyclorama marked on a guide to the complex published around the turn of the 20th century:

When the Cyclorama became defunct, Melbourne in 1842 was simply rolled up and put into storage and then forgotten about. It was rediscovered in the 1950's and subsequently donated to the State Library, where it is now safely in the permanent collection.

While Cyclorama's appear to belong to a vanished, and somewhat quaint, past, there are a surprisingly large number still on display around the world. The International Panorama Council (amazingly a real thing) lists three currently in operation in Australia; in Broken Hill and Glenbrook in NSW and  Hawker in South Australia.

'The Big Picture' in Broken Hill; a 100 metres long and 12 metres
high, it bills itself as the world's largest acrylic painting.

'Australia in the Round,' painted by former Penrith mayor
Jim Aitkins, is on display in Glenbrook NSW.

Accompanied by music, the 'Wilpena Panorama' in Hawker
depicts a 360 degree view of the Flinders Ranges.

The VFL/AFL Grand Final: A Pictorial History

This Saturday is Grand Final day, the biggest date in an overcrowded local sporting calendar. This event has a rich history, stretching back to the second VFL season in 1898, when Fitzroy (5.8.38) defeated Essendon (3.5.23) in front of 16 000 at the St Kilda Cricket Ground.

The following is a brief pictorial history, across these years...

1909

South Melbourne players march onto the MCG.

1910

Collingwood and Carlton play in front of a huge crowd.

1928

Collingwood Grand Final side.

1930

Geelong v Collingwood.

1933

Nash Diggins of South Melbourne gets a kick away.

1947

Grand Final Footy Record, Carlton v Essendon.

1956

A crowd of 115 000 spills out onto the MCG. Neil 'Hassa' Mann and Ian Ridley 

clash, Melbourne v Collingwood.

1961

The beginning of a long period of dominance; Hawthorn v Footscray.

1963

From the cheap seats; Geelong v Hawthorn.

1966

St Kilda captain Darrel Baldock celebrates the Saints only Grand Final 

win to date, a one point victory over Collingwood. Baldock was 

photographed wearing a Collingwood guernsey, having swapped with 

his opponent after the final siren.

1967

Richmond centre half forward Royce Hart.

1970

Merchandise stand, outside entrance 6. Please note
that no change will be given at the turnstiles.

Jesaulenko you beauty!

A still record crowd for any AFL/VFL match.

1971

Hawthorn full forward Peter Hudson worse for wear at half time after a clash 

with St Kilda hard man Kevin 'Cowboy' Neale.

1972

Carlton v Richmond.

1976

Winning Hawthorn captain Don Scott, post match.

1977

Aftermath of the drawn Grand Final, Collingwood v North Melbourne.

1978

North Melbourne full foward Phil Baker takes a hanger, one of several.

1979

The defining moment. Out? In? Or just a blur?

Prime Minister Malcolm Fraser celebrates Carlton's 

win with a Fosters in the rooms.

1980

The Tigers on their way to (to date) their most 

recent Premiership.

Defeated Collingwood coach, Tom Hafey.

1981

A crowd of 112 000 turn out for Collingwood v Carlton. This was the final 

match played at the MCG with the old scoreboard (centre right). It was 

replaced with a digital scoreboard in 1982.

1982

Bruce Doull meets Helen D'Amico.

Members function room, old member's stand, after Carlton's victory.

1984

Tim Watson and Kevin Sheedy celebrate the 'Baby 

Bombers' famous upset of Hawthorn.

1985

Hawthorn v Essendon.

'Lethal' Leigh Matthews tearful after his final game.

1986

Olivia Newton John about to perform at half time.

Hawthorn v Carlton.

1987

Paul Dear and John Madden.

1988

Champion players from an era of dominance.

1989

Dermot Brereton moments after being cleaned up by 

Geelong's Mark Yeates.

Gary Ablett snr, on his way to 9 goals

Ablett and his direct opponent, Chris Langford, as the siren sounds.

1990

Gavin Brown is ko'd and a brawl is seconds away.

Collingwood fans celebrate outside Victoria Park. An estimated 30 000 

people descended on the small suburban ground as the Pies broke a 32 year 

Premiership drought.

1991

'Bound for Glory!' Angry Anderson and the Batmobile 

provide an unforgettable start to the 1991 decider at 

Waverley. Due to construction at the MCG, this was 

the first match played elsewhere since 1945.

1992

Dynamic West Coast wingman Peter Matera on his way to five goals and 

a Norm Smith medal.

Coach Mick Malthouse and captain John Worsfold celebrate. West Coast's

win was the first Premiership won by a a non-Victorian club.

1993

Michael Long celebrates his stunning, running, bouncing goal,

part of his Norm Smith Medal winning performance.

1994

West Coast built their second flag on a relentless, smothering defence.

1995

Justin Madden celebrates Carlton's most recent Premiership.

1996

Wayne Carey develops a pre-game skin condition.

1997

Darren Jarman kicked five goals in the final quarter as

Adelaide came from a long way back to upset the

Saints. It was the Crows first Premiership.

1998

Adelaide coach Malcolm Blight embraces 

Andrew McLeod. McLeod had just won his second 

consecutive Norm Smith medal.

1999

North v Carlton.

2000 - 2001

James Hird rides the roller coaster.

2002

Hall of Famer's, head to head.

2003

Simon Black, best on ground.

2004

Alistair Lynch snaps in his final game.

Winning Port Adelaide coach Mark Williams sends a message.

2005

Swans defender Leo Barry about to take a game saving mark in the dying 

seconds. After Jezza's effort in 1970, probably the most famous Grand Final 

mark.

Sydney coach Paul Roos, as the Swans break the longest Premiership drought

in the completion's  history; 72 year. 'Here it is!'

2006

Norm Smith Medal winner Andrew Embley, post match.

2007

The Abletts; Nathan and Gary jr.

2008

'That's what I'm talking abbbooouuttt!!!' Shane Crawford.

2009

Geelong full back Matthew Scralett gets a crucial toe to the ball in the last 

minute as the The Cats edges the Saints.

2010

Collingwood's Heath Shaw throws himself on Nick Reiwoldt's boot, 

stopping a certain goal.

The third drawn Grand Final.

2011

Meatloaf; top candate for worst entertainment option of

all time. Afterwards, both singer and AFL would blame each

other for the fiasco.

Collingwood's Mick Malthouse and Dale Thomas, in a Geelong blizzard.

2012

Sydney's Adam Goodes celebrates the Swans upset victory.

2013

Hawthorn's Ben Stratton starts a new victory tradition.

2014

Son of Chris Langford,  Hawthorn rookie Will Langford kicked three crucial 

goals.

Sydney champ Nick Malceski after his final game for the Swans. He would
move to play for Gold Coast the following season.